Installation, Schematics, & Startup FAQ

The installation process for your controller very much depends on what controller configuration you purchase.  

TAP Conversion Kits and TAP Standalone Controllers are designed so that users can seamlessly install a TAP II or TAP II Pro Controller on their current build with no (or minimal) modification to their kiln or oven. Unless you’re a competent DIYer, we recommend starting there!

So, what’s the difference?

TAP Conversion Kits are used for swapping out your existing automatic controller. Standalones are used for upgrading manual kilns to programmable digital TAP Controls. We’ll be covering installation steps for those below:

Installing TAP Standalone Controllers

Installing a TAP Standalone Controller is a straightforward, plug-and-play operation: 

1. Mount your standalone kiln controller unit. First, you’ll have to figure out where you want to place your standalone kiln controller unit in relation to your kiln. Standalone controllers are available in table top and wall mount configurations. Table top standalone kiln controllers are easier to mount – you just place the unit on top of a flat surface! With wall mount kiln controllers, you will have to drill into the wall or other vertical surface to mount your unit. Either way, these units need to be close enough to both a power source and the kiln so that the power cord and thermocouple can both reach where they need to. 
   


2. Run the thermocouple to the inside of your kiln. Next, you’ll want to run the wire for the thermocouple so that the tip of the thermocouple is inserted into the interior of your kiln or oven. This may involve having to drill a small hole through your kiln brick. 
   


3. Plug your kiln into your standalone kiln controller unit. Take the plug from your kiln or oven and plug it into your standalone kiln controller. This way, your kiln controller will be able to manage the power flow to the elements of your kiln in order to regulate temperature. 
   


4. Plug your standalone kiln controller unit into a wall outlet or other power source. When purchasing a standalone kiln controller for DIY installation, you’ll have the option to select different plug types. This needs to be compatible with your current kiln plug. The NEMA 5-15 plug is the standard plug in North America, which will plug into any wall outlet in your house! 

At this point, your controller installation is complete, and your standalone unit is ready to control (or precisely monitor) the temperature of your kiln. Just power on your kiln, and you’re good to go! 

Installing a TAP Conversion Kit

Conversion kit installations are only slightly more complicated than installing a standalone unit. Below are the steps for a kiln controller DIY installation using a conversion kit: 

1. Make sure to purchase a kiln controller conversion kit that’s compatible with the wiring and controller housing for your current controller. Before purchasing a kiln temperature controller conversion kit, you need to know whether your current kiln controller is a 3-key, 12-key, or smart controller. So how do you tell the difference? Easy, just look at the inputs on your current controller. A 3-key controller has three input buttons; a 12-key controller has 12, and a smart controller uses a touchscreen. (SDS Industries includes drop down menus on our conversion kit shop pages, so that you can select the controller you’re replacing to ensure a perfect match. Also, it’s important to note that TAP Kiln Controller Conversion Kits can be used to replace automatic kiln controllers from other manufacturers, such as Bartlett, Orton, Paragon, and Skutt.)
   


2. Remove the old automatic controller from your kiln. First things first, disconnect power to the kiln and controller by unplugging the unit from the wall and/or turning off the circuit breaker! This is no joke – failure to do so may result in injury or death! Removing your old kiln controller is straightforward. You should find four mounting screws on the corners of your old unit. Remove these mounting screws using a socket driver or a Phillips head screwdriver. Remove your old controller unit from its housing, detach the thermocouple leads from your old controller, and remove the wiring harness that connects your old controller to your kiln.
   


3. Install the new controller mounting box. Your DIY kiln controller conversion kit will include a mounting box to house your new controller. Pass the thermocouple leads and wiring through the middle of the mounting box and screw in the mounting box to your kiln (occasionally, it may be necessary to drill new holes to screw in the mounting box; however, this is only in rare cases and will be the only modification needed to your kiln or oven).  
   


4. Plug the new wiring harness adapter into your kiln. The wiring harness adapter for your new kiln controller will plug right into your kiln’s existing wiring harness. 
   


5. Reattach the thermocouple leads to your new controller. The plug-in for your thermocouple lead will be marked on the controller board of your new controller. 
   


6. Attach the wiring harness adapter to your new controller. You will find plugs in the back of your controller that match the plugs on the new wiring harness adapter. 
   


7. Screw in the new controller faceplate to your controller mounting box. Voila! Your kiln controller installation is complete! 

Installation for TAP Digital Controllers 

Installing a digital controller that isn’t a standalone or part of a conversion kit is not as easy. If you’re not a competent DIYer, we strongly suggest enlisting the help of a certified technician. For our hardcore DIYers, we’ve included TAP Wiring Diagrams to help you make TAP a part of your new kiln or heat treat oven build.  

However, no matter how you install your controller, you’ll want to make sure to pair your controller to TAP Kiln Control Mobile to enjoy the best TAP has to offer!

TAP Kiln Control Products are compatible with mechanical, mercury, and solid-state relays (SSRs). So, which type of relay is right for you? Generally, we recommend using solid-state relays: the upsides and long-term savings far outweigh the added upfront cost.  

Mechanical relays have moving parts. That means they’re subject to normal wear and tear. They will fail eventually, it’s just a matter of when. That’s why it’s super important to have a defined preventative maintenance plan when working with mechanical relays. Change them before they fail or suffer the consequences of a ruined project or worse.

(Also, while mechanical relays are less expensive upfront, regular replacement costs leads to them being the most expensive option in the long run.)

Mercury relays were a great substitute for mechanical relays in that they weren’t subject to the same contact erosion in high current applications. However, they use the highly toxic liquid metal mercury to perform switching. These days, they’re largely obsolete and even outlawed in states such as California. Mercury relays have largely been replaced by solid-state relays.  

Solid-state relays have no moving parts and aren’t subject to the same wear and tear considerations as mechanical relays. They are superior to mechanical or mercury alternatives in lifetime, performance, and environmental considerations. However, their Achilles heel is heat. SSRs must be appropriately cooled via heat sink to maintain proper performance and prevent melting.  

Most new kilns have the option for solid-state relays – you should strongly consider choosing that option. If you’ve got an older kiln with mechanical or mercury relays, consider swapping them out for a solid-state the next time they need replacement!

You can learn more about kiln relays at this blog article. Additionally, if you want a limit controller that you can wire to a redundant safety relay to protect you if yours fail, we recommend investing in TAP Monitor for added safety!

The TAP II Pro and the discontinued original TAP Kiln Controller are multi-zone temperature kiln controllers that can be configured to accept inputs from up to 3 thermocouples and provide outputs for 3 different elements. 

These controllers are compatible with Type R, Type S, and Type K thermocouples.

TAP II is a single zone controller and can only be wired to a single thermocouple. The same is true for TAP Monitor, TAP Micro, TAP&Go, and TAP Monitor.  

All of our kiln control products – both single zone and multi-zone – are PID temperature controllers that are designed to deliver maximum precision.

The TAP&Go requires 5VDC but can also use 24VAC with an adapter. It draws 500mA of current, and its total power rating is 2.5W.

TAP&Go is a single setpoint controller designed specifically for heat treat or simplified schedules that only have one step and one setpoint. It’s not capable of executing a specific ramp rate.

TAP&Go is compatible with virtually any relay-controlled electric heat treat oven, furnace, or kiln. However, due to its unique dimensions and wiring, it is designed for new kiln and oven builds.

You can find more product details for TAP&Go, as well as wiring diagrams here.

The TAP Micro requires 5VDC but can also use 24VAC with an adapter. It draws 500mA of current, and its total power rating is 2.5W.

TAP Micro is compatible with most relay-controlled kilns and heat treat ovens. However, due to its unique dimensions and wiring, it is designed for new kiln and oven builds.

You can find more product details for TAP Micro here, as well as wiring diagrams here.

TAP Monitor requires 5VDC but can also use 24VAC with an adapter. It draws 500mA of current, and its total power rating is 2.5W.

TAP Monitor is available as a standalone pyrometer for plug-and-play install, as well as a set of configurable components for DIY installation or new builds.

It works with any kiln, oven, or furnace – with any manual or digital kiln controller – to provide precise, remote temperature monitoring to your smartphone or tablet. You can also wire TAP Monitor to a safety relay to let it act as a safety limit controller.

You can find more product details for TAP Monitor here, as well as wiring diagrams here.

TAP II Pro and the discontinued original TAP Controller offer three element outputs and a safety output.

The TAP II Controller, TAP Micro, and TAP&Go all have a single element output and a safety output. The safety output can be used as an upstream switch to prevent runaway in the event of the output relay failure.  
 
Additionally, TAP Monitor DIY Configurable Components can be installed as a redundant relay controller – for an additional layer of protection against relay failure.